If you are replacing your ride on mower engine with one of the new Briggs & Stratton Single Cylinder Ride on Mower Series Models, the wiring loom and connector might be slightly different to your old model, depending on what brand of ride on mower you have.
Your mower will have a starter motor engaging solenoid, so you must connect the wire that runs from this solenoid to the terminal on the starter motor. The terminal is located towards the base of the starter motor.
We have listed below, the wires found on the new Briggs & Stratton single cylinder engines and where they need to be connected to.
RED WIRE - This is your DC cable, it should be connected directly to positive power on your battery. This wire charges your battery.
BLACK WIRE - This is the engine kill switch, It needs to run to an ON/OFF switch and then run to earth. DO NOT CONNECT THIS WIRE TO POSITIVE POWER!
GREY WIRE - This needs to run to an on/off switch and then to positive power on your battery, this controls the carby solenoid for fuel.
ORANGE WIRE (IF FITTED) - Can be connected to headlights or any other accessories
5 comments
Melvin
I have a craftsman LT1000 riding mower and I replaced the engine with a Briggs & Stratton EX 1750. The new engine has two connections. A single red wire and a dual connector with a black and a gray wire. How do I make the connection to the chassis wire harness that has an Orange, Red, Blue, and Black pins? Is there a conversion harness for this application?
Richard Hartensteiner
What happens if it’s wired wrong
Peter
Just for anyone interested-
I bought a 13.5HP B&S Intec engine to replace an old 12.5HP model recently (Oct 2020).
The old engine was from the early 2000’s
I have never done an engine swap before, so I was on a steep learning curve.
Right here, YouTube is your friend, there are lots of engine swap video’s (some good, some not so much), watch some before you start.
The old engine was removed fairly easily, with just a few problems with the pulley removal.
The new engine itself fitted where the old one was mounted perfectly.
The throttle body mount was exactly the same, and on the same side, so that was easy.
(the exhaust was on the other side, so I had to modify the bonnet a bit)
My new engine had a fuel pump, the old one didn’t, so I just plumbed from the fuel tank, straight into the fuel filter (and therefore the fuel pump), and had no problems.
I reached out to Small Engine Warehouse for some advice on wiring, as mine was slightly different, and was directed to this article – by Steve in sales.
I’ll just point out that my new engine has RED and WHITE wires coming from the Stator (alternator), not Red and Orange like in this article. and the new engine did not have the six in plug like in this article (it had two two pin plugs) – the old engine did have a six pin plug.
FWIW – RED is the same as in this article, DC return to charge the battery. And the Orange in this article is the same as White on my new 13.5HP Intec engine.
The Black (cutout) and Grey (carby solenoid) are also the same, so pretty easy overall.
The other issue I had was that my new engine has a carby solenoid, the old engine did not. So I had to wire it in. I used a tester to confirm 12V charge. I spliced into the RED wire and ran that to a toggle switch (on-off, which I mounted on the dash), then connected it to the grey carby solenoid wire. This has worked fine for me, and I usually shut the engine down with this switch, then turn off the ignition once the engine has stopped (so I use up the remaining fuel in the carby to stop the engine – be aware that this method takes a few extra cranks of the engine to refill the carby with fuel, when I go to restart it).
Hopefully this helps out anyone who had the same questions as me.
Phillip wilson
Does this mean the starter motor will not be connected directly from the ignition
jennifer fabri
thank you so much
Regards
Jennifer